Homeowners, Beware: This Hidden Problem Could Cause Your House to Crumble

Wood rot can lead to a number of structural problems, including deteriorated support posts and beams, rotted floor and ceiling joists, and destroyed roof decking. The cost to repair the damage- or, in other words, replace the rotted wood- can run in the tens of thousands of dollars.

Wood rot is a form of decay triggered by the combination of moisture and fungi. There are three general effects this combo has on wood:

1. Brown Rot: Often called “dry rot” because the surface of the wood appears dry, brown-rot targets cellulose in the wood’s structure. As the cellulose is destroyed, the wood shrinks, turns deep brown in color, and breaks into small cube-shaped bits. Brown rot thrives at temps between 65 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and once it starts growing, it spreads rapidly.
2. White Rot: If wood takes on a whitish or light-yellow shade and feels spongy, it’s probably white rot. Whereas brown rot affects cellulose white-rot fungi break down lignin, another element of the wood’s structure, leaving the light-colored cellulose behind. Like brown rot, white rot occurs in temps between 65 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
3. Soft Rot: Soft-rot fungi decompose wood more slowly than brown-rot fungi and white-rot fungi, but thrive in temperatures too hot and too cold for the other types to survive, between 0 and 110 degrees Fahrenheit. Soft-rot fungi break down cellulose, leaving the wood with a honeycomb-like appearance, and while it is usually found in fallen logs and trees, not commonly houses, it can strike a come if conditions are right.

Where is my home most at risk?

• Windows: All it takes is a small gap that’s not adequately sealed with caulk for rain to seep through and saturate the wood in the wall beneath the window. Because the wood is not exposed to air or sunlight, it remains damp- providing optimal conditions for fungi growth. Older wooden windows are at an even greater risk, as tends to pool on the horizontal sills, seeping through the cracks in the paint.
• Exterior Doors: Like windows, cracks and gaps between a door and the siding (or threshold) permit water to enter, making them prime spots for wood rot. The rot is often found when homeowners decide to install a new door. Once the old door frame is removed, the rot is visible in the wood framing.
• Outdoor Decks: Horizontal decking boards and stair treads can also hold water. While many treated decking boards are water-resistant, they’re not 100 percent waterproof, and over time, they can rot. The bottoms of painted balusters are a prime spot for rotting; they’re typically built from untreated pine, and then painted to resist the elements. Water becomes trapped under the bottom of the baluster and doesn’t dry out, giving fungi a chance to grow.
• Basements: High humidity and moisture is prevalent in basements because the concrete walls are surrounded by moist soil. Humidity levels can be so high in leaky basements that water vapor can form on the surface of walls and wooden ceiling joists. Once the rot gets a foothold here, it can spread unnoticed until it creates structural damage.
• Wet Rooms: Any room with a plumbed water fixture, such as a kitchen, laundry room, bathroom, or utility room (with a water heater) is at risk. Leaks around water supply lines and drainpipes keep the area wet and provide an optimal environment for wood-rot fungi to thrive.
• -Damaged Roofing: Missing or damaged shingles can permit water to seep in, and over time, it can lead to wood rot in the roof decking and in the lumber used to frame the attic.

How should I look for wood rot?

Checking your home for signs of wood rot should be an annual mission, and a good time to do it is during your pre-winter weatherproofing tasks. All you need a long-handle screwdriver and a good flashlight. Here is what to look for:

• -If your home has wood siding, examine the siding around and beneath the windows for signs of swelling or discoloration. Paint can hide wood rot, so poke the siding with the tip of the screwdriver—the wood should be firm and hard. If the screwdriver sinks into the wood, you’ve got a wood rot problem.
• -Using a strong flashlight, check the attic for discolored wood. If you find any, perform the screwdriver test. Wood should never be soft. Prime spots in the attic for wood rot are on the underside of the roof decking, in the joints where the wood members connect at the peak of the roof, and at the edges of the attic where the rafter’s slope down to form the eaves.
• -Check the wood members in a basement or crawl space, using the flashlight to detect discoloration around the perimeter wood plate that sits directly on the top of the concrete basement wall (sill plate). Probe any discolored areas with the screwdriver.
• -Examine walls and floors beneath sinks, around tubs and showers, and around the water heater for signs of water leaks or discoloration. If you find mold growing, the wood floor plates behind the wall are at risk of wood rot. The only sure way to find out is to remove a section of the wallboard and check the wood behind.

Can I treat or repair the rotted wood? And how can I prevent future problems?

Softwood damaged by wood rot is not salvageable and should be replaced as soon as possible to keep the rot from spreading. If the wood is discolored, but the screwdriver test did not detect softness, you can try treating it. You’ll first have to dry the wood by repairing leaks and/or running a dehumidifier. Once the wood is dry, you can apply a wood preservative that contains copper or borate. Monitor the wood because it’s still at an increased risk of future rot. When it comes to wood rot, prevention is the key. It’s easier- and much cheaper- to prevent rot rather than fix it. The following steps will help keep the wood in your house dry fungi don’t have a chance to set up shop.

1. -Seal all cracks around exterior doors and windows with caulk.
2. -Scrape away old, hardened caulk, and replace it with fresh caulk.
3. -Clean gutters regularly—at least twice a year—to prevent blockages that can lead to water running over the backside of the gutter and down the side of your home.
4. -Add a covered entryway over doors to keep rain away from the doors.
5. -Use a good dehumidifier in the basement or in any room of the house subject to high humidity.
6. -Install exhaust fans in bathrooms to remove steamy air caused by hot showers.
7. -Repaint exterior windows and siding if paint is cracking or peeling.
8. -Sweep standing water from outdoor decking as soon as the rain stops.

Source:
Wood Rot 101: How to Prevent and Repair Its Damage – Bob Vila

We’ve all been there. You’re washing dishes, your hands, or even your hair, and suddenly, the water starts backing up. There’s a clog. While some serious clogs might require a call to a plumber, most clogs can be quickly and easily handled by you!

Understanding the Common Causes of Clogs

Clogs are usually caused by hair, greasy grime, or a combination of both. Instead of reaching for harsh chemicals, which can be damaging to your pipes and the environment, grab your trusty plunger. Here’s how to clear those stubborn clogs and get your drains flowing smoothly again.

Step-by-Step Guide to Unclogging Your Drain

1. Prepare Your Tools: Skip the chemicals and grab your plunger. Make sure it’s clean and in good condition.
2. Position the Plunger: Place the plunger over the center of the drain, ensuring a good seal. This is crucial for effective plunging.
3. Start Plunging: Just like you would with the toilet, begin plunging vigorously. The up-and-down motion helps to dislodge the clog. Be persistent but careful not to splash water all around.
4. Check the Drain: After a few strong plunges, remove the plunger and check if the water starts to drain. If the clog persists, repeat the plunging process until the clog is cleared.
5. Rinse and Test: Once the water begins to drain, run hot water down the drain for a few minutes to help flush out any remaining debris. This will ensure the clog is completely cleared.

Preventing Future Clogs

To prevent future clogs, consider these tips:

• Use a Drain Cover: A drain cover can catch hair and large particles before they enter the drain.
• Avoid Pouring Grease: Grease can solidify and cause clogs. Dispose of it properly instead of pouring it down the drain.
• Regular Cleaning: Periodically clean your drains with a mixture of baking soda and vinegar, followed by hot water.

By following these simple steps, you can save yourself a pricey service call and keep your drains running smoothly. Regular maintenance can help prevent clogs and keep your plumbing in top shape.

Remember, keeping your drains clear is an essential part of home improvement and maintenance. Incorporating these practices into your routine will ensure your plumbing remains efficient and clog-freely Regular maintenance can prolong the life of your locks and keep your home secure. 

Source:
100 Home Repairs You Can Do Yourself — The Family Handyman

Ensuring your locks function smoothly is crucial for home security. While locksmiths often use powdered graphite, there’s an easier and less expensive alternative: a simple pencil. In this step-by-step guide, we’ll walk you through how to lubricate your locks using graphite from a pencil.

Why Use Graphite?

Locksmiths have long relied on powdered graphite to lubricate locks because it effectively reduces friction within the lock mechanism. If your key refuses to slide fully into the lock, powdered graphite can help. However, if you don’t have powdered graphite on hand, a pencil can serve as a convenient substitute door lock lubricant.

Step-by-Step Guide to Lubricating Your Locks

1. Prepare Your Key: Take a sharp pencil and generously rub the teeth of the key with it until the surface is covered with a thick coat of graphite. Don’t be shy; the more graphite, the better!
2. Insert the Key: Insert the graphite-covered key into the lock. This action will deposit the graphite into the lock mechanism. If the key still doesn’t glide smoothly, repeat the process several times until the key moves effortlessly.
3. Test and Repeat: After inserting and removing the key a few times, test the lock by turning the key. If it still feels sticky, apply more graphite and repeat the process.

The Benefits of Using a Pencil

Using a pencil for door lock lubricant is a quick and easy fix, especially in a pinch. It’s a cost-effective and accessible solution that can save you time and money.

By following these simple steps, you can ensure your locks are well-lubricated and functioning smoothly. Regular maintenance can prolong the life of your locks and keep your home secure. Happy DIYing! 

Source:
100 Home Repairs You Can Do Yourself — The Family Handyman

Are you tired of dealing with a drawer that sticks or doesn’t move smoothly?
We have the perfect solution for you!

Gulf Wax, a versatile household paraffin wax commonly used for making candles and canning food, is also an excellent remedy for smoothing out a sticky wooden drawer. Follow these easy steps to get your drawer gliding effortlessly:

1. Identify the Problem Areas: Check the wooden drawer slides and any other points of friction.
2. Apply Gulf Wax: Rub a block of Gulf Wax along the identified areas. This will reduce friction and allow the drawer to move smoothly.
3. Test the Drawer: Replace the drawer and test its operation. You should notice a significant improvement immediately.

Using Gulf Wax is a quick and cost-effective solution for homeowners looking to maintain their furniture. Say goodbye to sticky drawers and enjoy the smooth operation with this simple fix!

Where to Find and Buy Gulf Wax

Gulf Wax is widely available and can be found in several places:

• Local Grocery Stores: Check the baking or canning section of your local grocery store.
• Hardware Stores: Many hardware stores carry Gulf Wax in their household or cleaning supplies section.
• Online Retailers: Websites like Amazon, Walmart, and other online retailers offer Gulf Wax for convenient home delivery.
• Craft Stores: Stores that sell candle-making supplies often stock Gulf Wax.

By knowing where to find Gulf Wax, you can easily purchase it and keep it on hand for any future household fixes. Happy repairing!

Source:
100 Home Repairs You Can Do Yourself — The Family Handyman

Changing the paint on your front door is a simple yet impactful way to refresh the look of your home. Follow this step-by-step guide to achieve a professional finish and a cheerful new entryway.

Step 1: Remove the Door

Start by removing the door from its hinges. This allows for easier access and a smoother paint job. Use a screwdriver to carefully detach the door and place it on a pair of sawhorses or a sturdy work surface.

Step 2: Prepare the Surface

Preparation is key to a successful paint job. Sand the entire surface of the door to remove any old paint and create a smooth base. Wash the door with a mild detergent and water to remove dust and debris. Make sure the door is completely dry before moving on to the next step.

Step 3: Remove Hardware and Cover Glass

Take off all hardware, including knobs, hinges, and any other attachments. This ensures that you can paint the entire surface without obstructions. If your door has glass panels, cover them with painter’s tape and plastic to protect them from paint splatters.

Step 4: Apply Primer

Apply a coat of primer or a paint-and-primer-in-one to the door. Primer helps the paint adhere better and provides a uniform base for the topcoat. It will likely take two coats of primer, so be sure to let each coat dry completely before applying the next.

Step 5: Paint the Door

Once the primer is dry, it’s time to apply the paint. Choose a high-quality exterior paint for durability. Start by painting the edges and any intricate areas with a small brush. Then, use a roller for the larger, flat surfaces. Apply the paint in thin, even coats, allowing each coat to dry before applying the next. This may take two to three coats for full coverage.

Step 6: Reattach Hardware and Rehang the Door

After the final coat of paint is completely dry, reattach all the hardware you removed earlier. Carefully rehang the door on its hinges. Make sure everything is aligned properly and the door opens and closes smoothly.

Step back and admire your work! A freshly painted front door can significantly enhance your home’s curb appeal and create a welcoming entrance for you and your guests.

By following these steps, you can transform the look of your home with a simple paint job on your front door. Happy painting!

Sources:

30 DIY Home Projects Absolutely Anyone Can Do – Bob Vila

Did you know there is a quick and easy way to transform the look of your kitchen or bathroom that doesn’t require a ton of money or skill? With peel-and-stick backsplash, installing a new backsplash tile has never been easier. It is the perfect at-home DIY project for any day and can completely transform the look of your room. There are so many options to choose from, the hardest part will be choosing your favorite! This can easily be done in one day and your space will have never looked better. Here is all the steps you need to do it yourself!

Step 1: Prepare the Wall

Start by cleaning the wall with a wall cleaner and a cloth. Ensure the wall is completely dry before proceeding. Use a pencil and ruler to mark the placement of each tile for precise alignment.

Step 2: Cut the Tiles

For tiles with interlocking edges, use a box cutter and ruler to make straight cuts on a cutting mat. This will help align the first tile to the wall. A box cutter can also be used to cut holes or other shapes in the tiles as needed.

Step 3: Apply the Tiles

Begin at a designated starting point on the wall and work your way from the bottom up. Peel off about one-third to half of the protective backing and press the tile firmly onto the wall to remove air bubbles. Use a credit card or plastic smoother for better adhesion. Ensure overlapping tiles align properly for even spacing, and leave a small gap if you plan to add a grout line.

Step 4: Finish

Once the tile is correctly positioned, remove the remaining protective backing. Use a roller to firmly bond the tile to the wall.

Source: Wayfair

https://www.wayfair.com/sca/ideas-and-advice/diy/11-easy-at-home-diy-projects-to-try-in-your-free-time-T6319?refid=GX665030318540.~&position=&network=g&pcrid=665030318540&device=c&targetid=aud-1644462780921:dsa-2227447474224&channel=GoogleIntent&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAtt2tBhBDEiwALZuhAH-sSQTW2407IbkLf-O5rPR7NrTygN-J-OjiI095Zzs71P4OkA2NQRoCXD8QAvD_BwE

It’s not uncommon to accidentally make a hole in the wall. Thankfully it’s super easy to fix up in no time! With a few simple steps,if you have a hole that needs repairing, you can have it patched and looking like new following these easy steps.

For holes about the size of a doorknob, a patch kit can be used to do the repair. From any local hardware store pick up a self-adhesive mesh patch, drywall knife and some joint compound. 

Step 1:
Place the mesh patch over the hole.

Step 2:
Using a drywall knife, cover the patch with the joint compound in a crisscross pattern to minimize and thin the compound on the drywall. If needed, apply a second coat and let dry.

Step 3:
Once dry, sand the area with a light sanding until smooth and blended with the surrounding wall.

Step 4:
Apply a coat of primer, let it dry and follow up with a coat of paint.

Now in just a short amount of time you just saved some money making your wall look like nothing ever happened!

Sources:

https://www.lowes.com/n/how-to/patch-and-repair-drywall

Did you know that eliminating an old carpet yourself could save you anywhere from $3 to $5 per square yard? By removing the carpet from a 12’x15′ room, you could save between $60 to $100 for an hour’s work (depending on the installer and where you live.) Following these few steps can make removing carpet a little easier. 

–Start in a Corner with a Sharp Blade

If you can locate a seam in the carpet, that would be a good starting point. If you can’t find a seam, use your blade to cut into the carpet. Start in a corner and use a pair of pliers to pull the carpeting off the tack strips- be careful because they are sharp!

–Cut Carpeting Into Strips

It is easier to carry if you cut the carpet into approximately 4-foot-wide strips. 

–Pull Back and Roll Up Strips

Pull up each 4-foot strip. Roll up the strips and then carry them out of the space. 

–Remove Padding

Once all the carpeting has been removed, remove the padding. If the subfloor under the padding is plywood, the padding was likely stapled down, and it is best to remove all of the staples. If it was glued down, you may have to use a glue scraper to remove the glue from the concrete. 

–Remove Tack Strips (If necessary) 

If you are having new carpeting installed, you may be able to reuse the tack strips if they’re in good shape. If the strips need to be removed, use a mini crowbar and hammer to pry the strips loose from the subfloor. Make sure to vacuum the floor once everything is removed. 

Have a plan for disposing or recycling your old carpet. The website carpetrecovery.org lists carpet collection sites across the country. Before throwing it away, consider options like having the edges bound to use as an area or throw rug, using pieces to make a cat scratching post, dog mats or doghouse liner or even place pieces under your washer and dryer to quiet their vibration.

Sources:

https://www.hgtv.com/design/decorating/design-101/how-to-remove-wall-to-wall-carpet

https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/home-repairs-you-can-do-yourself/

Did you know that you’re supposed to change your ceiling fan direction seasonally? The direction that the fan blades spin can significantly affect your home’s temperature.



During the summer months, you want to run your ceiling fans counterclockwise, as it pushes down the air and creates a cool breeze while providing a consistent room temperature. During the winter months you want to have your ceiling fans running clockwise at a low speed. This will help redistribute warm air throughout the room.



With mounting electric bills or sky-high oil costs, redistribution of warm air could really make a difference by reducing the amount of time the heat needs to be run each day. To change the fan’s direction, there is usually a small switch located near the pull string or cord. 

Source:
https://www.apartmenttherapy.com/reverse-your-ceiling-fan-direction-and-save-energy-138867

The first step in this DIY project is to decide on your color scheme. It’s crucial to opt for a semi-gloss or gloss paint, as these finishes are known to withstand the wear and tear of daily use better and are also easier to clean, thereby maintaining the fresh look of your cabinets for a longer period.

Next, you’ll need to remove all the doors, drawers, and hardware from your cabinets. This is followed by the application of two coats of primer. Once the primer has dried, lightly sand the surface to ensure a smooth finish. Keeping in line with the grain of the wood, apply the paint color of your choice to the front, back, and sides of the cabinet doors.

After the paint has dried, it’s time to reinstall the cabinets. At this point, you could consider adding new cabinet and drawer pulls for a fresh look, or alternatively, you could wash and reuse your old ones. A few simple coats of paint can truly transform a space, making it feel like new. Enjoy the process and the results!

Remember, our friends at Sherwin-williams are always more than happy to assist you with your paint selection and answer any questions you may have during this process!

To recap, here is the breakdown of the steps:

1. Choose your color scheme: Opt for a semi-gloss or gloss paint, which withstands daily use and is easier to clean.
   
2. Remove all doors, drawers, and hardware: This will make the painting process easier and more efficient.
   
3. Apply two coats of primer: This will help the paint adhere better and give a more polished look.
   
4. Lightly sand the surface: Do this after the primer has dried to ensure a smooth finish.
   
5. Apply the paint: Go with the grain of the wood and apply the paint to the front, back, and sides of the cabinet doors.
   
6. Let the paint dry: This is crucial to ensure the paint sets properly.
   
7. Reinstall the cabinets: Once the paint is dry, put everything back in place.
   
8. Consider new cabinet and drawer pulls: You can add new ones for a fresh look, or wash and reuse your old ones.

Looking to find more ways to making your kitchen looking fresh? Call Unified Builders about your home and lets discuss how we can make a difference!

Source: Bob Vila
https://www.bobvila.com/articles/diy-home-projects/